highs require lows
Back home! Float trips, overnight river parties, Music on Main, mountain biking and more all within the first week of being back. I love this place. No better return to the mountains than to try the Winds Picnic. Or so I thought - more on that later.
David Gonzales described the Winds Picnic to me as “the most epic four days I’ve ever spent in the mountains. Gives you a completely new and different appreciation of the Winds. I tried to create a Picnic that would absolutely blow away those who tried it. I can’t recommend it enough.” Was that enough incentive to go for it? It was for me.
The Winds Picnic starts at Elkhart Park trailhead near Pinedale, WY. First you bike 65 miles to the Green River Lakes trailhead. Then climb Gannett Peak (Wyoming’s highpoint at 13,804ft) via the Tourist creek drainage. On the way swim 5 lakes. Descend Gannett via Titcomb Basin back to Elkhart park. Swim 5 more lakes along that route.
In total the traverse requires 65 miles of biking, 10 miles of swimming, and 35 miles of hiking/scrambling with about 8000 ft. vertical gain.
I almost always start Picnics at midnight. Sometimes earlier. Nocturnal life is great for temperature, lack of people, and epic Milky Way views. I arrived at Elkhart Park midday in order to prepare gear and sleep until midnight.
After organizing gear I popped some melatonin and crashed in the shade for roughly 8 hours.
Gear
wetsuit goggles clip belt and leash 65L NRS bills bag
2 space blankets fuel, stove (cat food can), lighter cook pot
dry stuff sacks 2 powerade bottles bivy pad
phone, charger, cord sunscreen Go Pro, batteries, mounts
2 headlamps, batteries. thermarest repair kit duct tape, TP, knife, fire starter, med kit, repair kit
tooth brush / paste GPS watch and charger Garmin InReach
hat + sunglasses, buff running shoes, bike shoes, bike lock
short sleeve, shorts small towel
puffy, shell, base layer crampons, ice ax
boxers, long underwear, puffy pants 3 socks - 2 active, 1 thick for sleeping
gloves
Food
I didn’t really know how long this would take me so I brought almost three days of food - all but a dinner for the last day.
I threw this together pretty fast without counting calories. Over the years I’ve gained a solid idea of how much I generally need given exertion levels on each trip.
Breakfast
4 oatmeal packets, 1 hot chocolate packet, tons of powdered peanut butter, and hella nuts - pour it all into a ziploc, throw hot water straight in, and you have a solid calorie bomb to start the day.
Lunch - less a meal, more of an all day grazing behavior
2 tortillas loaded with nutella
1 snickerdoodle hot chocolate packet
2 energy things - shot blocks, Gu, sport beans
1 nut butter packet
lots of trail mix
Dinner
mac and cheese with three packets of olive oil for added calories
Drinks
I filtered water throughout the trip using Aqua Mira. I’d mix crystal light packets or Mtn Ops Ignite powder inside if I got tired of simple high-quality H2O (thank you Bobby Boucher)
I’ve continually debated if it’s lighter to go without a stove and eat raw food or bring the stove and cook. I’ve found a lightweight stove solution that makes cooking the answer. And let’s be honest - a warm meal at night really helps.
For cooking I bring a small pot, denatured alcohol, and a cat food can. I’ve been using this same cat food can for over 10 years. I bought it in 2012 and punched holes in it. I place an ounce of denatured alcohol in it and put my pot right on top.
Sure it’s not as fast as a jet boil. Maybe 5 minutes extra to boil your water. But generally we have endless time to be patient in the outdoors. Plus the fuel is way cheaper than your standard gas cans and you don’t create trash and half-empty cans you have to carry out.
Day 1
I left at midnight and started the 65 mile ride to the Green River Lakes trailhead. The first 45 miles went swimmingly. I dodged numerous pronghorn antelope, mule deer herds, and a bull moose crossing the pavement in front of me. The last 20 miles, however, turned to dirt.
Dirt is chill but not when it’s washboarded the whole way and loaded with rocks. My gravel bike has solid tires for it but no suspension. Getting butt-rammed for 20 miles was uncomfortable and felt never-ending. I was ecstatic when the sun rose, I approached the first lake, and could say goodbye to the bike for good.
I swam the first two lakes as the sun rose (just under 3 miles). Next I started my trek towards and up Tourist creek. It was hot as hell and involved endless boulder scrambling. How David did this in a suit and bow-tie I’ll never know.
During the scramble I found a heavy fleece jacket with gloves in the pockets. Passing three parties I asked if it was theirs’, yet no one claimed it. I carried the jacket and gloves the rest of the trip. Poor move - ounces make pounds, pounds make pain. Oh well, I got a free fleece out of it.
I swam one final lake at sunset. A beautiful shallow swim to cap-off a 20 hour day of moving.
I slept just above Scott Lake with a beautiful view of Gannett Peak’s west face - tomorrow’s objective
In total day 1 took 20 hours and involved 65 miles of biking, roughly 3.5 miles of swimming, and 12 or so miles of hiking with 3000 ft vertical gain.
To keep things light I didn’t bring a sleeping bag on the trip. I slept in a bivy sack to box-out mosquitos. I wrapped myself in two space blankets while wearing a down jacket and down pants. It was cozy.
Day 2
After sleeping 8 hours I started day 2 with the coldest swims of the trip. Scott and Ribbon lakes sit at 10,000-11,000 ft and are fed by Mammoth and Minor glaciers on Gannett’s west side. These were the only two lakes where I couldn’t swim normally with my head under water, even with a 5mm neoprene hood. I had to swim surf-style - paddling with my head above the surface.
Now time to climb Gannett. After a short crossing of Minor glacier, I was on rock to the summit. I talked to Tyson and Amy - a couple from Colorado who watched me swim. As I approached, Tyson exclaimed “normally I don’t like getting passed in the mountains, but you are the most insane mother fu*ker I’ve ever seen". Everyone I ran into on this trip was a chiller. The mountains attract the best people.
Found a lady bug frozen inside Minor glacier
The normal route is a scramble up a loose, chossy couloir to the north ridge followed by a ridge run to the summit. To avoid the loose scree I chose to climb straight up the west face. Still not sure if it was the right play - 4th class + and low 5th class scrambling on dirty, loose boulders had me spooked at times.
But it shot me straight to the summit where I was greeted with the sun. Actually I appreciated climbing the west face in the morning because I was in shade until the summit.
Scott and Ribbon lakes visible center screen
I pondered how many soaked wetsuits had made it to the top of Wyoming
Half-way. Time to charge out Titcomb basin to the finish. Descending Gannett’s other side requires crossing some of the Lower 48’s largest glaciers. Crampons, ice ax, and glissading required.
running shoes - the ultimate in crampon-compatibility
Gannett (upper left) with Gooseneck and Dinwoody glaciers
Descent to Titcomb Basin. Upcoming Titcomb lakes visible in the distance
One of my favorite parts of the trip was appreciating how unique each lake was. All varied in color, depth, clarity and temperature. The Titcomb lakes sit so close to one another I hiked in my wetsuit between them. The first, however, was noticeably colder than the second.
Titcomb basin was packed with backpackers and climbers. Many looked with faces of confusion as I stripped naked on the shores and swam across.
My favorite part of Titcomb was comparing it to my last trip there. Denton, Tanner, and I skied into this same basin - only the lakes were frozen then.
In the two photos above you’ll see Island Lake - frozen in winter but asking to be swam in summer. Island Lake was my final swim of day 2.
You can see that it sits somewhat perpendicular to the direction of travel. While extra and out of the way, I had to give full credit and appreciation to the lake. The trail dumps you near its center. So I swam first northwest, then turned around and swam its length southeast to give the lake what it deserves.
I planned to sleep just past Island Lake but the mosquitos were horrendous. In the minutes I stripped my wetsuit I was swarmed by 100 on my butt and back and every corner of my body I don’t care to mention.
To escape them I pushed on several miles to a windy saddle where I ate mac and cheese in the dark.
Day 2 totaled 16 hours with 5 lake swims and a summit of Gannett.
Day 3
I knew I was making decent time at this point. I had solid energy and plenty of food to get me through the final 2 swims and roughly 10 miles of hiking.
I chose to ditch the bivy that night and sleep curled next to the trail in my warm clothes. I awoke 3 hours later at 1:30am with an unreal Milky Way showering me above. “What’s a Picnic without a night swim?”, I thought. So I loaded up my gear and hiked under the stars to Seneca and Hobbs Lake. This was where things got magical.
I swam both lakes illuminated only by the stars. The moon was a tiny crescent and the stars were some of the best I’d seen. I paused my strokes to float on my back, soak it in, and count shooting stars. Night swimming is a surreal experience.
Tanner once described night swimming as “foreign”. He’s right. If it’s your first time it’s a foreign experience in an otherwise familiar place. Take your favorite local water source that you know every inch of. Swim it at night and you’ll gain a brand new perspective of the place.
My GoPro couldn’t pick up the light so I have no photos from these swims. But here’s a shot of crossing Seneca lake this winter.
first light kissed the sky as I finished my final swim - Hobbs Lake
Now to hike out. Roughly 8 miles. My car, change of clothes, and sandals waited for me at Elkhart Park. It felt endless and hurt a lot (read below) but the early morning hours kept temperatures cool. I fell onto the ground at my car in a daze of excitement, relief, exhaustion and stoke.
Thank you David. You wanted a Picnic that would absolutely blow away those who tried it. You succeeded.
Final time - 2 days, 8 hours, 11 minutes.
sub-2 days?
Mountain athletes generally have short-term memory issues. What I mean is we chase sometimes masochistic adventures that often involve plenty of type 2 fun. In the moment we may even wish them to end. Yet in a couple days time we remember the incredible parts. We seemingly forget the struggles and crave a repeat.
Will I do the Winds Picnic again? Yup, most likely. My curiosity now is if I can break 2 days. Here are reminders for myself and recommendations for others on what to change for a future attempt.
ounces make pounds, pounds make pain (and reduce speed)
-don’t pick up the fleece and carry it the rest of the trip
-bring less food. 2 days max
-no bivy sack. find mosquito-less, wind-blown sleep spots
-fewer layers. I didn’t need the rain jacket, buff, or gloves
keep a faster pace
-be anti-social. don’t talk with as many groups
-more nocturnal. start at 9pm rather than midnight for cooler temps
-sleep less. I totaled 11 hours during my 56 hour trip. 8 hours max on a two day attempt.
-no achilles issues (below)
game plan
Day 1 finish the first 5 lakes and sleep at base of Minor glacier. Summit Gannett by sunrise the next day and push to the end. Sleep once for 8 hours or twice for 4 hours
highs require lows
If you think back to the momentary high scale I posted on the intro page, you’ll remember that we are reaching for 8-10 experiences. The Winds Picnic provided just that. But in order to reach these endorphin highs we must often enter the 1-3 range. Recall that 1-3s can be anything from injury to type-2 fun to death.
My highs on this trip were clouded by a never-ending pain in my left achilles. The level of pain wavered. While always noticeable, occasionally it was numb from cold lakes and other times sheer agony each step.
I did it to myself. One of my top goals this year was to avoid injuries. I always try to prevent, monitor, and reduce the risk of acute injuries from falling, crashing, etc. But I often fail to watch out for over-use problems.
Asia was practically a month off my feet. When I walked the ground was flat. I predominately swam and that involves pointed toes. In short, my achilles tendons spent a month relaxed.
Returning to Jackson, did I consider the need to slowly and progressively load my body? Nope. I was excited by a new bike and rode it immediately up hills the Philippines could only dream of. I planned for the Winds Picnic in less than a week. I’m usually active enough I’ve never had to worry about sudden loading.
Well this time my achilles weren’t ready. I felt tiny shots of pain while biking. I iced them the two days leading up to the Picnic. They felt better and I was hopeful. While taping them at Elkhart Park with rock tape, I read a generic cliche on the tape’s wrapper.
“pain is nothing compared to what it feels like to quit”
Did the cliche push me to go? Not really. I was set on going from the moment I drove south. But it was a nice incentive.
I won’t bore you with the details but here are the basics. Pain was noticeable but small on the bike ride. I stayed hopeful. Swims always made it feel numb and better. Hiking tourist creek day 1 was when things got annoying. Waking up morning of day 2 I fell over. It swelled a lot in the night. I limped to Scott Lake for it’s cold relief.
At that point I was almost half way. I had to get out somehow so why not go forward? I felt the achilles pain for the rest of the trip. To make matters worse, I changed my gait to reduce the pain which produced a blister on my other foot. Pain subsided only on the swims. I’ve always said swims are the best part of Picnics and this trip solidified that.
Achilles tendinitis. Fortunately I didn’t fully tear my achilles but strained it hard (I don’t know medical terms so if I’m wrong on these well shoot dang)
It’s been a week since the injury. Until yesterday my mental state was not great. I don’t do well with injuries and resting.
But my brother reminds me “the leopard isn’t always hunting”. Hahaha he’s the best. A reminder it’s my time to rest and recover for the next “hunt”.
I awoke the first two days back in town with a foot swollen twice its normal size. It wasn’t weight bearing. I was destined to rest all day and ponder the month ahead. Reports from friends and online stated recovery could be anywhere from a month to a year. Tendons are slow to heal. I knew I’d just wrecked the chance of several August goals and possibly Alaska hunting season. Already this last week I bailed on plans to climb Mt. Moran and Disappointment peak. I was devastated.
Luckily all is not lost for Jackson summer. Since the injury I’ve still been able to go on an overnight river float, chill at Music on Main, and enjoy time with friends. And I can still swim. A good friend said it well, “injuries redefine your priorities and goals”. I feel that. Already I am fine with losing out on my own August climbing goals. I really really just want to heal for momentary highs with friends and my Alaska work.
But my recovery is hopeful! Local chiropractor legend Derrik Sulzer (@tetonchiro) saved me. He offered dry-needling and physical therapy. Most importantly he approached recovery in an active way. Gone are the days of sedentary healing with rest, ice, compression and elevation. Remember RICE? Those things limit blood flow, stall recovery, and lengthen healing. Instead he recommended MEAT - movement, exercise, analgesics, and treatment.
Through Derrik’s treatment and PT recommendations I’ve noticed large improvements in just a week. In fact the last two days have been emotional. This may sounds so lame but whatever. Prior to yesterday I hadn’t walked more than 2 miles on flat ground. But yesterday morning felt better so I tried Josie’s ridge in Jackson. I told myself I’d only go halfway. Literally a trail that climbs less than 2000 ft and I used to run as a warmup I was now trying to walk halfway. But it went so well! My achilles felt amazing and I didn’t limp. Just a little sore after but no swelling. Today I hiked 4.5 miles on Targhee with Kelly. I almost teared up realizing not all is lost for August adventures and September hunts.
But I have to be smart. Active recovery is now very possible. But I need to progressively load. The tendon is weak. So the plan is to ramp up the distance and elevation each day while continuing with foam rolling and stretching.
It’s only August 2nd! I went from being scared to being excited about what this month will bring. Let’s go…